If you choose not to listen to experience, you will simply demonstrate this for yourself, at the cost of a nice Casino. The painting may well be achievable, but removing the finish is going to wreck the guitar. If we had an 'Advice of the Month' award, I think you can safely say that this would pretty much do it. This sounds to me like the voice of experience, or someone who at least knows what he's talking about.Īnthony JB, it sounds like good news! If it's going to cost you $2500 for all the gear, you can probably pick up an ES-330 for around the same price and save yourself a tonne of effort. You can't use heat or you'll de-laminate the body' date=' and no chemical stripper will eat off the poly while leaving the wood and glue. You know why it'll cost so damn much? Cause it's very hard to near impossible to do. In which case you'll need about $2500, a couple practice guitars, and a few months of research and practice before thinking of tackling a real guitar. Do you have a large compressor, a siphon feed spray gun and a jar for every color you'll be doing? A good dryer for the compressor? A clean room to spray in and allow the guitar to cure in? A large selection of lacquers, an arbor buffer and polishing compounds and a large selection of bonnets? If you have to equip yourself with this stuff it will be cheaper just to buy the guitar you want, unless you just want to get into refinishing. And not to mention the cost of the kit you'll need. This is a whole boatload of problems before we even get to applying the new finish. This leaves you very little room for over sanding without ruining the face of the guitar.

The face veneer of the guitar is extremely thin, 1/32 or less in most cases. That leaves us with VERY careful hand sanding. You can't use heat or you'll de-laminate the body, and no chemical stripper will eat off the poly while leaving the wood and glue.

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